Last weekend was a big adventure – a hike to
Talakha Peak, site of the best views in this part of Bhutan, via Talakha
monastery, with some friends.
At the monastery, we expected to sleep on a cold floor and
get bedbugs, but it was like a 5-star resort.
The monks brought out cushions and a wood stove, and fed us a great meal. At night some of them watched a movie, others played a board
game, but I spoke with the abbot, who had recently completed his 3 years 3
months 3 days solo retreat. Then I went
outside to check out the view of Thimphu 3,000 feet below.
It was cold out there, so I came back in to go to sleep,
only to be attacked by vicious guard kitties.
I joke that Phyllis is perfect except for being allergic to cats, and
getting to hang out with kittens is a big deal for me. Samir was likewise appreciative, until one of
the kittens peed inside his sleeping
bag – with him in it!
We got up at 6:30 and
hiked up to the peak. It was completely
clouded over, rare for this time of year, but we trudged on nevertheless, into
frosted forests of spruce, oak and rhododendron. We could see patches of snow above us. But as we climbed the clouds dissipated,
except in the east, and as we continued to climb we were above those clouds and
so the eastern peaks, which form part of the border between Bhutan and Tibet,
jutted out above the clouds. Here's Trident Peak:
And here's Gangkar Puentsum -- at around 25,000’, Bhutan’s highest mountain and the world’s highest unclimbed peak. I’d do it next weekend but the mountain deities would not be happy, nor would the government, which prohibits climbing the biggies:
The rest of the sky was perfectly clear, no clouds, no
haze. Four hard hours later we were at
14,000 feet. A few of the
highlights: to the northwest, Jomolhari,
Bhutan’s most sacred mountain:
But it was to the west that we got the most splendor – we
could see well past Bhutan, past Sikkim, and far into Nepal, hundreds of miles
away – the massive Kangchenjunga, worlds 3rd highest peak; Makalu,
#5; and at the extreme limit of our vision, Lhotse (#4) and Everest.
We could also look
down and see our flat at RTC -- in the
building farthest to the right (this picture not taken from the peak).
I would have waved to Phyllis, but she was 2 day’s travel away
in eastern Bhutan, teaching women’s health.
Any way, I just wanted to let you all know this was a big deal for
me. I love the hiking and the great
views, and the feeling of accomplishment.
Next: Phyllis and I dine with the King and Queen of Bhutan!


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