Hobnobbing with Royalty; A Thanksgiving to Remember...

Just when I was feeling sorry for myself that we were missing all that wonderful food and friendship for Thanksgiving----YIKES! an invitation to join the King and Queen for Thanksgiving brunch at the palace!
We all duded up---kiras for the women, suits or ghos for the men---and waited outside the palace gates, having no idea what this would be like, and trying desperately not to have high expectations.

We were all blown away by what followed:

Lavish outdoor seating, under umbrellas (the day was gorgeous and sunny), complete with white table cloths and the King's china, seated dining, the waiters wearing white gloves, fresh flowers on the tables.
If you have never seen a picture of the King and Queen of Bhutan, they are almost like fairytale people: the youngest (and poorest?) monarchs in the world.  He is a mere 38 and she a young and beautiful 23, yet wise beyond her years.  Both have been educated in the US and UK, so their English is impeccable...but better yet, they are charming and easy to talk to.  The "Royals" went around to all the tables and sat for awhile at each, conversing easily about a variety of topics--gardening, basketball, motorcycles, health care, higher education. We shared stories with them as well---(I got to explain how I had been a chick mom at the International Crane Foundation).  I suspect they both enjoy having chillips to talk to---as we will talk to them.  The Bhutanese people are very deferential and won't look them in the face, making it a challenge to have a conversation.  But talk we did!  And laughed, too. The other impressive thing were the other Americans there--so many of us doing many interesting and beneficial things.

The food was an interesting combination of western (French toast) and Bhutanese (bangchang, a mildly alcoholic yeast drink) plus bowls of saffron rice (always done on special occasions).  Yummy!

If you've never seen a picture of this famous couple, here are a few.  

And here's another famous couple:

Yeah, I know--there's no comparison....








We were not allowed to bring in cameras of any sort---but the King and Queen always have their official photographer at these events, so we each got a glossy 8 x 10 of the whole group.  Below is a scan of that photo:

Where's Waldo?   K and Q standing behind the little girls in pink.... Rick and I to the left and behind the guy with the white kabney (ceremonial scarf).  I know I know...not a great picture, but proves we were there!

All in all it was a really delightful and unexpected Thanksgiving---and I am oh so thankful for this wonderful time in Bhutan---and also so thankful that I will get to see many of you soon...the best of both worlds!

MUSING #22: A fourteener with a view of Mt. Everest

Last weekend was a big adventure – a hike to Talakha Peak, site of the best views in this part of Bhutan, via Talakha monastery, with some friends.

At the monastery, we expected to sleep on a cold floor and get bedbugs, but it was like a 5-star resort.  The monks brought out cushions and a wood stove, and fed us a great meal.  At night some of  them watched a movie, others played a board game, but I spoke with the abbot, who had recently completed his 3 years 3 months 3 days solo retreat.  Then I went outside to check out the view of Thimphu 3,000 feet below.

It was cold out there, so I came back in to go to sleep, only to be attacked by vicious guard kitties.  I joke that Phyllis is perfect except for being allergic to cats, and getting to hang out with kittens is a big deal for me.  Samir was likewise appreciative, until one of the kittens peed inside his sleeping bag – with him in it!

 We got up at 6:30 and hiked up to the peak.  It was completely clouded over, rare for this time of year, but we trudged on nevertheless, into frosted forests of spruce, oak and rhododendron.  We could see patches of snow above us.  But as we climbed the clouds dissipated, except in the east, and as we continued to climb we were above those clouds and so the eastern peaks, which form part of the border between Bhutan and Tibet, jutted out above the clouds.  Here's Trident Peak:

And here's Gangkar Puentsum -- at around 25,000’, Bhutan’s highest mountain and the world’s highest unclimbed peak.  I’d do it next weekend but the mountain deities would not be happy, nor would the government, which prohibits climbing the biggies:

The rest of the sky was perfectly clear, no clouds, no haze.  Four hard hours later we were at 14,000 feet.  A few of the highlights:  to the northwest, Jomolhari, Bhutan’s most sacred mountain:

But it was to the west that we got the most splendor – we could see well past Bhutan, past Sikkim, and far into Nepal, hundreds of miles away – the massive Kangchenjunga, worlds 3^rd highest peak; Makalu, #5; and at the extreme limit of our vision,  Lhotse (#4) and Everest.

 We could also look down and see our flat at RTC  -- in the building farthest to the right (this picture not taken from the peak).

I would have waved to Phyllis, but she was 2 day’s travel away in eastern Bhutan, teaching women’s health.  Any way, I just wanted to let you all know this was a big deal for me.  I love the hiking and the great views, and the feeling of accomplishment.

Next:  Phyllis and I dine with the King and Queen of Bhutan!